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Sirbaz Khan Achieves Historic Feat: First Pakistani to Summit Mt. Everest Without Supplemental Oxygen, Completes 11 Ascents of 8,000-Meter Peaks

By climbing Mount Everest, the highest peak in the world, without the need for additional oxygen, Pakistani climber Sirbaz Ali Khan has accomplished another noteworthy accomplishment. Having ascended the 8,849-meter summit without the use of supplemental oxygen, Sajid Sadpara became the first Pakistani to accomplish this accomplishment, and Sirbaz Khan became the second.

Sirbaz Ali is the first and only Pakistani to have successfully ascended 11 of the 14 summits over 8,000 meters without the need for oxygen assistance. He created history last year when he became the only person from Pakistan to climb thirteen of the top fourteen peaks in the world.

By ascending the 8,188-meter-tall Cho Oyo mountain, which is situated in China’s Tibet area and is the sixth-highest peak in the world, Khan further enhanced his record. He was the first person from Pakistan to reach the summit of 10 peaks above 8,000 meters without the need for additional oxygen when he accomplished this peak without it.

One day before he was supposed to reach the peak on Monday, he started his last ascent from camp-I on the mountain. With a strong desire to reach the top 14 peaks in the world, Sirbaz is currently attempting to climb Shishapangma, an 8,027-meter mountain.

Politicians, civil society representatives, mountaineers, and social media users praised Sirbaz Khan on his accomplishment. Sirbaz was congratulated on his Everest climb by Alpine Club of Pakistan Secretary Karrar Haidri in a statement. Originating in the Aliabad neighborhood of Hunza, Gilgit-Baltistan, Sirbaz Khan, 34, started climbing in 2016.

He achieved a first for Pakistan in 2019 when he climbed Mount Lhotse, the world’s fourth-highest peak at 8,516 meters, in Nepal without the need for oxygen support.

He reached the summits of Nanga Parbat (8,125 meters) in 2017, K-2 (8,611 meters) in 2018, Broad Peak (8,163 meters) in 2019, Gasherbrum-I (8,080 meters) in 2022, Anapurna (8,091 meters), Everest (8,848 meters) with oxygen supplement, Gasherbrum-II (8,035 meters), and Cho Oyu (8,201 meters) in Tibet, China, in 2023.


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